Tips for Sewing with Crepe de Chine

I really love crepe de chine. Yes, it is not the easiest fabric to work with.

But it has many benefits:

• it is natural;
• it is quite durable due to its specific weave;
• it is long-lasting;
• it dries quickly;
• it adjusts to your body temperature almost instantly;
• it is lightweight;
• flared dresses made of crepe de chine drape beautifully in waves.

However, there are some specific features that beginner sewists should keep in mind:

• never buy fabric from random sellers, as you might get a fake – natural crepe de chine cannot be cheap;
• if you are working with crepe de chine for the first time, choose simple patterns with minimal seams, as the fabric is slippery and prone to puckering;
• ideally, try to align seams along the grainline – this will significantly improve how the fabric behaves while sewing;
• edges should only be finished with a serger, never with a zigzag stitch – it will create a stiff roll that will be visible on the right side of the garment;
• do not sew tight-fitting models from crepe de chine – over time, the seams may pull apart under tension;
• crepe de chine shrinks, so be sure to pre-wash or soak the fabric before cutting;
• iron crepe de chine only from the wrong side at a low temperature;
• wash crepe de chine items only by hand or on a delicate cycle at a temperature no higher than 30 degrees;
• it is best to choose liquid detergents, as powder can be harsh on the dye;
• do not dry crepe de chine items in a machine, on a radiator, or in direct sunlight – this will damage the fiber structure, making it brittle and causing the color to fade;
• the ideal drying method is at room temperature, with the garment hanging on a hanger.

If I haven't scared you off with this list of challenges, then that's great! In reality, crepe de chine is a very beautiful fabric, and it is worth enduring a few difficulties for it!

Before cutting crepe de Chine, test the fabric with your needle, stitch length, and pressing temperature on a scrap.