Special-Occasion Dress for a Girl: Pattern Drafting

Every girl should have a special-occasion dress, and there is always a reason to wear one.

Let's look at how to draft the pattern for a special-occasion dress.

If you already have a basic children's dress block, half the work is done. If not, draft one first from a basic dress-block method.

The fitted design uses darts at the back and side seams.

Calculate the total dart intake as follows:

1⁄2 (hip circumference − (waist circumference + waist ease)).

Divide the result equally between the back and side-seam darts. For example, if the total dart intake is 4 cm, allow 2 cm for the back dart and 2 cm for the side-seam dart (see Figure 2).

Upper Part of the Dress

For pattern drafting, separate the upper part of the dress at the waistline.

To shape the bodice line, draw perpendiculars from the upper points of the side seams to the centre-front and centre-back lines. On the front bodice, draw the outline from the midpoint of the section between the lower neckline point and the perpendicular. On the back, the bodice outline follows the perpendicular.

For the strap, transfer the shoulder dart into the armhole (see Figure 3). Mark 2 cm from the neckline and 1 cm from the armhole, then draw the straps.

Bodice Lining

Trace the bodice pieces onto a separate sheet. Close the back waist dart and join the pieces at the side seams, beginning at the waistline (see Figure 5).

Shape the upper and lower edges with smooth lines, smoothing the joins.

Draw the waistband parallel to the lower outline. Its width is 4 cm.

The waistband and the main front and back pieces are now drafted (Figure 6). Use them to draft the bodice gathers.

Cut the patterns into four equal vertical sections (Figure 7). Spread the lower sections by the chosen amount (Figure 8). Align the pieces at the sides, then shape the upper and lower edges with smooth lines (Figure 9).

This gives the finished front and back bodice pattern pieces (Figure 10).

Skirt

For the skirt pattern, measure the lower edges of the front and back bodice pieces and the dress length from waist to knee, measured along the back.

Use these measurements to draft rectangular front and back skirt pieces, adding the required fullness for gathering (Figure 11).

Skirt Lining

You can use the outer-skirt patterns to cut the lining. Alternatively, make a lining without waist gathers while preserving the necessary fullness at the hem.

Measure the lower edges of the front and back bodice pieces and the skirt length from waist to knee. Draft two rectangular pieces and shorten them by 2 cm so the underskirt does not show below the skirt. Cut each piece into four equal strips (Figure 12), then spread them at the lower edge by an amount that allows the child to move freely, for example 4 cm (Figure 13).

Check that the side edges match, align the pieces, and shape the side joins with smooth lines.

This gives the underskirt pattern pieces (Figure 14).

Straps

The strap pattern is a rectangle gathered at the ends. Measure the strap length along the back and front and its width along the shoulder line (Figure 15).

Draft a rectangle using these measurements (Figure 16). Gather the short ends by half (Figure 17).

Waistband

For the waistband, use a ready-made contrasting satin ribbon or make one from trim fabric.

The length calculation is shown in Figure 18.

The patterns are ready and you can start sewing. When sewing for or with a child, keep scissors, pins, sewing machines, and irons under adult control; remove loose pins and check that seams and trims are secure.