What you can learn from a fabric label

When choosing a fabric for a sewing project, we usually follow the recommendations of a dressmaker or a pattern magazine. This is generally correct. However, sometimes you might go into a fabric store for something small, like thread, and leave with an unplanned cut of fabric you fell in love with. Then the dilemma begins: what should I sew with this? Or perhaps you are ordering fabric online. You can't touch it through the screen, and relying on written descriptions can be difficult since everyone's perception is so individual.

I suggest learning this very useful cheat sheet. It will help you differentiate fabrics based on their density. First, let me clarify: density is the number of warp and weft threads in a 10 cm square. In other words, if a fabric label states a density of 80 g/m², it means one square meter of that fabric weighs 80 grams.

You also need to consider the composition of the threads. If a fabric is made of thin threads (which are very light) but they are packed very tightly with almost no gaps, the density of such fabric will be high. Thin threads placed close together grip each other firmly. Therefore, if you see a thin fabric with a high density rating, it means it will be tear-resistant and wrinkle-resistant. However, if thin threads are spaced loosely (i.e., low density), the fabric will be very breathable, but unfortunately, it will also wrinkle easily and not hold its shape well in a finished garment. Fabric with low density made from thick, voluminous threads will also be soft and airy.

And now, here are the standard figures for average density:

• density from 20 to 80 g/m² - sheer fabrics like chiffon and batiste;
• density from 80 to 140 g/m² - semi-sheer fabrics like challis and poplin;
• density from 140 to 200 g/m² - lightweight dress and shirting fabrics like linen, viscose, and twill;
• density from 200 to 250 g/m² - suiting fabrics like heavy linen, cotton, denim, and suiting twill;
• density from 250 to 320 g/m² - heavy suiting fabrics like wool cloth and Chanel tweed;
• density from 320 to 400 g/m² - coat and jacket fabrics;
• density from 400 to 550 g/m² - heavy coat fabrics, faux fur, and shearling.