Types of Knit Seams: 5 Ways to Sew Machine Stitches

How to work with knit fabric so that the stitch sewn on a sewing machine — and therefore the knit garment itself — retains its elasticity? 😕

Method one – regular straight stitch.

In fact, it's suitable only for those rare types of knits that stretch minimally. In this case, it's highly recommended to hold both halves of the knit slightly taut when stitching them together — then the stitch will be dense and durable.

**Method two – zigzag stitch.

It doesn't gather the knit, so it's great for fabrics with any degree of stretch. The only condition is that the stitch should be narrow; for that set the machine to the minimum stitch length/width.

**Method three – double stitch.

Can be done either with a zigzag or a classic straight stitch. It's very important to "keep a distance" of 3 mm. In this case the excess seam allowance is trimmed, and the seam is pressed to one side.

**Method four – double-needle stitch.

Suitable for all types of knit fabrics. However, beginners will need to learn the subtleties of sewing with a twin needle beforehand (the process is described in detail in the instruction manual that comes with the sewing machine): in particular, you need to know exactly which needle is threaded first and how much to reduce the stitching speed.

**Method five – stretch stitch.

This stitch is designed specifically for stretch fabrics, so it's ideal for knits. The bobbin (lower) thread forms a zigzag on the wrong side, which allows the elasticity to be preserved. The edge is smoothed into a flat (overlock-like) seam.

An overlocker can be replaced by a special presser foot that imitates an overlock seam, forming a sturdy edge about 5 mm thick.

Hope this info was useful! Special thanks to Yulia Dekanova for the tutorial idea and the illustrative photos ❤