Rubrics
Here's how to make a floor vase from a cardboard tube and cardboard: build the frame, cover it in papier-mâché, coat it with putty, add a raised pattern, and finish it with decoupage.
BeginnerFreeA handmade floor vase with a raised pattern and decoupage finish — a striking piece of home decor or a great gift.
Cut a piece from the cardboard tube to the length that will become the height of your vase.
To make the pieces easier to work with, hold the tube against a piece of cardboard and trace the vase's shape with a pencil. You'll cut the rest of the pieces using these traced shapes.
When cutting the pieces, keep in mind: the more ribs you use, the sturdier the frame will be and the easier the rest of the work goes. Yes, cutting out the vase's ribs is a bit tedious, but it goes quickly.
Glue the tube to the round base of your future vase. A cardboard base works too, but the vase will stand sturdier and more stable on a fiberboard base.
Glue the cardboard pieces around the frame's perimeter. A glue gun works best for attaching the cardboard to the tube.
Now for a simple round of papier-mâché: cover the vase's ribs with pieces of paper and PVA glue. Build up several layers over the surface and let them dry fully (this can take 2-3 days).
Next, mix up some construction putty (it doesn't matter much whether it's a finishing or a base-coat type). Mix in a small amount of PVA glue and coat the surface of the dried paper. Work carefully while puttying the surface and try to keep it as smooth as possible — it helps to keep wetting your hands with water as you go.
Once the putty has dried, start smoothing out any unevenness. Take sandpaper or a sanding mesh and sand the vase's surface thoroughly.
To create the raised pattern, take the same putty you used to coat the surface and thin it to a sour-cream consistency. Take a squeeze-bottle container, like an empty craft PVA glue bottle or an acrylic paint bottle. Fill it with the thinned putty and pipe a pattern onto the vase's surface.
While the raised pattern dries, you can start on the vase's main decor. For this, we'll use decoupage. Glue your chosen paper-napkin pattern onto the vase's surface with PVA glue, and let it dry. Seal it with several coats of varnish, and it's ready to display in your chosen spot or give as a gift.
After applying several coats of varnish, let the vase dry completely before setting it out or giving it as a gift.
Instead of a floral or poppy pattern, you can use any decoupage napkin you like — the technique stays the same.
If you don't have a fiberboard base on hand, a cardboard base works too, though a fiberboard base will make the vase more stable.
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The vase wobbles or loses its shape before the paper layer goes on.
Too few cardboard ribs were used around the frame's perimeter.
The more ribs you glue around the perimeter, the sturdier the frame will be — don't skimp on how many you use.
Once dry, noticeable bumps and unevenness remain on the vase's surface.
The putty was applied with dry hands, which made it harder to smooth out.
Keep wetting your hands with water while you putty the surface — it helps get a smoother finish.
The putty layer cracks or flakes off the paper layer underneath.
The papier-mâché paper layer wasn't fully dry before the putty was applied.
Let the paper layers dry completely — this can take 2-3 days — before applying the putty.
A cardboard tube from a linoleum roll, dense cardboard from a packing box, a fiberboard base, a glue gun, paper and PVA glue for the papier-mâché, construction putty, sandpaper, a squeeze-bottle container, a decorative paper napkin for decoupage, and varnish.
The vase's height equals the length of the cardboard tube you cut at the very start.
The papier-mâché layers can take 2-3 days to dry before you can apply the putty.
Thin the putty to a sour-cream consistency, put it into a squeeze-bottle container (like an empty PVA glue or acrylic paint bottle), and pipe a pattern onto the vase's surface.
After the napkin decoupage, the surface is sealed with several coats of varnish.
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