This master class shows how to sew a women’s bag from an old suede coat: cut the outer pieces, handle tabs, decorative bridges, lining, and pockets; set rivets with metal rings; sew pockets to the lining; insert a separating zipper; assemble the outer bag and lining; close the bottom of the lining; topstitch the folded upper edge; and attach chain handles with snap hooks.
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Translated
Things you will learn
An old suede coat can become the main material for a roomy handbag.
The finished bag in this tutorial is about 35 × 36 cm.
The outer pieces are cut 36 × 40 cm plus 1 cm seam allowances on all sides.
The decoration uses metal rings, suede bridges, and rivets that create small folds in the suede.
A separating zipper is easier to install in this bag construction.
The bag is turned through the open lower edge of the lining, which is then folded in and stitched closed.
Roomy suede handbag
The result is a useful women’s bag made from an old coat: lined, with pockets, a recessed zipper, metal decoration, and chain handles.
Materials and tools
Materials
Old suede coat, Used for the outer panels, handle tabs, and decorative bridges.
Lining fabric, The author used the coat lining.
Separating zipper, 1 pc., A separating zipper is easier to install in this bag.
35 mm metal rings, 8 pcs., For decoration and attachment points.
30 mm metal rings, 4 pcs., Placed closer to the center of the decorative layout.
15 mm metal rivets, 4 pcs., For attaching the handle tabs.
7 mm metal rivets, 24 pcs., For attaching rings and decorative bridges.
Snap hooks, 4 pcs., For attaching the chain handles.
Handle chains, 2 50 cm lengths, Two chain lengths form the handles.
Thread, Match the suede and lining.
Tools
Sewing machine, For sewing suede, lining, and decorative topstitching.
Needles for heavy fabrics, Choose a needle suitable for the suede thickness.
Scissors or rotary cutter, For cleanly cutting suede and lining fabric.
Ruler and marker, For symmetrical marking of decoration and pieces.
Rivet-setting tool, Needed for both small and large metal rivets.
Pins or clips, Clips are safer on suede because they do not leave extra holes.
Preparation
Prepare the material
Take apart the old suede coat and choose areas without heavy wear for the outer panels, tabs, and decorative bridges.
Check the hardware
Before sewing, make sure you have all rings, rivets, snap hooks, the zipper, and chains; some hardware is installed before the bag is assembled.
Cutting the pieces
Cut the suede pieces and the lining first. The finished bag is about 35 × 36 cm.
Cut the outer panels
From suede, cut two rectangles 36 × 40 cm plus 1 cm seam allowances on all sides.
Prepare tabs and decorative bridges
Cut four handle-tab strips 2 × 15 cm and sixteen decorative bridges 15 × 40 mm. Round the short ends of these pieces.
Cut the lining and pockets
For the lining, cut two main pieces 30 × 36 cm and two pockets 15 × 20 cm.
Decorating the outer panels
Install the metal rings and bridges before assembling the bag, while each outer panel is still easy to handle.
Mark the decoration lines
On each suede panel, mark the decoration lines symmetrically from the center vertical line.
Mark the rivet points
Measure 10 cm up from the lower edge for the first rivet point. Then mark the remaining points at intervals of 5 cm, 4 cm, 4 cm, 4 cm, and 5 cm.
Attach rings and bridges
Set the small rivets, securing the metal rings and suede bridges. Place the larger rings at the sides and the smaller rings closer to the center.
The suede folds are intentional
Because the bridges and ring diameters are shorter than the marked rivet spacing, small decorative folds form in the suede.
Lining, zipper, and assembly
This stage adds the inner pockets, zipper closure, and main bag shape.
Sew pockets to the lining
Stitch the pockets to the lining pieces with double stitching for strength. Add triangular bar tacks at the corners, and divide the pockets into two sections with a vertical stitch line.
Baste the upper edges and insert the zipper
Baste the suede panels to the lining along the upper edges while inserting the separating zipper.
Why a separating zipper
The author chose a separating zipper because it is easier to sew into this bag construction.
Place the pieces right sides together
Place the sewn units—the lining and suede outer sections—right sides together and pin or clip them. Close the zipper so the layers do not shift.
Sew the sides
Sew along the side edges of the lining and outer pieces, then sew the lower edge of the main suede panels.
Turn through the lining
Turn the bag through the open lower edge of the lining. Fold the lower lining edges to the wrong side, baste or pin them, and stitch them closed.
Tuck the lining inside
Push the lining into the bag. Fold the upper edge of the suede pieces inward by about 5 cm; the zipper will sit slightly recessed rather than right at the top edge.
Handles and finishing
The final steps secure the folded upper edge and the chain handles.
Topstitch the folded edge
Add decorative topstitching around the folded upper edge, 7–10 mm from the edge.
Attach tabs with snap hooks
Thread the tabs through the snap hooks and secure them with large rivets 2 cm below the top edge, aligned vertically with the decorative elements.
Attach the chain handles
Attach two 50 cm chain handles to the snap hooks. The bag is ready.
Finish and variations
Finish
Final check
Check that the zipper opens smoothly, the lining is not twisted, the pockets are secure, the handles are firmly attached to the snap hooks, and the rivets hold the rings and tabs tightly.
Variations
Another firm material
If you do not have an old suede coat, use firm faux suede or soft leather of a suitable thickness.
Less metal decoration
Use fewer rings, chains, and rivets if you want a quieter everyday bag.
The rings and bridges look different on the two sides of the bag.
Likely cause
The rivet lines and points were not marked from the center vertical line.
How to fix it
Mark each outer panel symmetrically from the center vertical line and repeat the same spacing: 10 cm from the bottom, then 5 cm, 4 cm, 4 cm, 4 cm, and 5 cm.
The layers shift during assembly
Problem
The lining and outer bag move out of alignment.
Likely cause
The zipper was left open or the layers were not secured well.
How to fix it
Before sewing, place the pieces right sides together, pin or clip them, and close the zipper as described in the tutorial.
?FAQ
What size is the finished bag?
The tutorial gives the finished size as about 35 × 36 cm.
Why use a separating zipper?
The author used a separating zipper because it is easier to install in this bag construction.
Where do you turn the bag right side out?
Turn the bag through the open lower edge of the lining, then fold that edge in and stitch it closed.
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