Rubrics
Step-by-step repair for a snag in knitted fabric: choose matching yarn, pick up dropped stitches with a crochet hook, join them with a grafting stitch without tightening the fabric, and secure the yarn on the wrong side.
BeginnerFreeAfter the repair, the open stitches are connected back into the fabric, and the working yarn is taken to the wrong side. If you match the yarn by color and thickness and do not overtighten the stitch, the snag becomes much less noticeable.
The source states this directly: a grafting stitch will not help if the hole is worn through. This method is for damage caused by a snag, where the yarn pulled out and snapped.
From the discussion: you can stretch the knitted area over a darning mushroom or a regular light bulb. On a curved support, the open stitches are easier to see and less likely to be missed.
Take yarn that matches the item. Thickness matters too: yarn that is too thin or too thick will differ from the fabric density and make the repair more visible.
If the fabric has thinned and worn through, a grafting stitch alone is not enough. This method repairs a snag with open stitches.
Use a crochet hook to carefully catch the open stitches that dropped out of the row because the yarn snapped. Do not stretch the edge of the hole: the goal is to prepare the loops for joining, not enlarge the opening.
Put the area over a darning mushroom or light bulb, as suggested in the discussion. The stitches stand out better on a curved surface.
In the diagram, the black yarn shows the needle path: the loops are joined alternately from the top and bottom, imitating the structure of knitted fabric.
Thread the needle. Start joining the open stitches as shown in the diagram: move the needle alternately through the loops on the upper and lower sides of the damage.
The diagram shows the working yarn path through the open stitches, not just the finished appearance.
Do not pull the work tight. Tighten the yarn only to the density of the surrounding fabric, so the repair does not become stiff or puckered.
When all open stitches are joined, take the working yarn to the wrong side and secure it. Also take the broken yarn end that caused the hole to the wrong side and secure it.
After securing the yarn, look at the repair from the right side. If the area is puckered, loosen the stitch right away while the yarn is still easy to adjust.
Both the working yarn and the broken old yarn end should be taken to the wrong side and secured so the stitches do not unravel again.
From the discussion: if the diagram is difficult, you can use a thick knitting needle to pass through the first two loops of the upper part, then the first two loops of the lower part. This does not replace the original diagram, but it can help join the edges more evenly.
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The fabric has thinned, there is not enough yarn, or the open stitches are missing or damaged.
This is wear, not a snag.
Do not rely on a grafting stitch alone: the source says this method is not suitable for a worn-through hole. Use another repair method, such as darning, reinforcement, or a patch.
The needle path is uneven, and one or more loops are not caught.
The stitches are hard to see, or the repair area lies too flat.
Use the discussion tip: stretch the area over a darning mushroom or a regular light bulb. The stitches become easier to see and easier to pick up in order with the hook.
After stitching, a fold or stiff spot appears around the hole.
The working yarn was pulled tighter than the gauge of the item.
Loosen the tension and use the neighboring stitches as a guide. The source specifically says not to pull the work tight and to match the fabric density.
The grafting stitch does not come out evenly from the diagram.
It is awkward to catch individual loops alternately.
As a simplified trick from the discussion, use a thick knitting needle to pass through the first two loops of the upper part, then the first two loops of the lower part. The commenter notes that this at least joins the loops evenly.
When the fabric was damaged by a snag: the yarn pulled out and snapped, leaving open stitches nearby. The original author does not recommend this method for a worn-through hole.
Use yarn that matches the item. The source specifically emphasizes that both the color and the yarn thickness matter.
If you overtighten the working yarn, the repair will pucker the knit. Match the tension to the neighboring fabric.
The discussion suggests putting the knitted area over a darning mushroom or a regular light bulb: the stitches are easier to see and less likely to get lost.
A comment suggests a simplified method: use a thick knitting needle to pass through the first two loops of the upper part, then the first two loops of the lower part. This is useful if you keep missing stitches when following the diagram.
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My mother used to mend things this way for me, and now my daughter can do it too, but mine always comes out crooked and uneven. I always miss some loop, and it is good if it is only one. So this method is probably not for me. I just take a thick knitting needle and pass it through the first two loops of the upper part, then the first two loops of the lower part. At least that way they join evenly for me.
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So the stitches are visible and do not get lost, I put the knit fabric over a darning mushroom or an ordinary light bulb.