Rubrics
A step-by-step tutorial for making a toy spider from fur: cut wire for the legs and jaws, wrap it in fur strips, cut and sew the fur head and body pieces, stuff them, join the pieces together, sew the legs onto the head, and finish with bead eyes.
Intermediate3 hrFreeYou'll get a realistic fur tarantula prop with wire-framed legs and bead eyes, ready to use for a prank.
Gather wire, an old fur hat or coat, Moment-brand glue, a sharp knife, pliers, soft stuffing, a piece of cardboard, and beads.
Cut wire into pieces: 4 strips 16 cm long, 4 pieces 12 cm long, and 4 pieces 4 cm long — these will become the spider's jaws and legs.
The wire leg frames get wrapped in strips of fur.
Cut 1 cm wide strips from the fur. Cut the pelt only in the direction of the nap, and only along a ruler (a metal one works best), so you don't damage the fur.
Spread glue on the fur strips and glue them to the wire, folding the edges over.
The head and body are cut from fur and leather using templates, then sewn and stuffed.
Make two templates from a piece of cardboard (you can use your own measurements). Transfer the pattern onto the fur. It's important that the nap on the back runs toward the future neck, and on the head runs from the back of the head toward the mouth. For the spider, you'll need to cut 2 fur pieces for the back and 1 leather-and-fur piece each for the head.
Put the pieces right sides together and sew them. Turn the head piece right side out.
Stuff the head piece with soft stuffing and carefully close it with a blind stitch.
Do the same for the spider's body.
The head, body, and legs come together into one figure.
Join the head to the body. To keep the head and body from bending out of shape, insert 2 pieces of wire inside the piece and add more glue at the join.
Lay out the legs: long ones on the outside, short ones in the center. Sew the legs only to the head — leave the body alone — and sew them to the leather base. Shape a bend, and add extra glue at the joint.
The finishing touch is the spider's eyes.
Real spiders have 8 tiny eyes, but a couple of large beads work just as well in place of small eyes.
You can leave the finished spider somewhere unexpected to prank friends and family — you're guaranteed plenty of reactions!
You don't have to use the author's exact template for the body — feel free to make it your own size.
This master class is also available in:
While cutting the fur strips, the nap or the pelt itself gets damaged.
The cut was made against the nap's direction, or without using a ruler.
Cut the pelt strictly in the direction of the fur's nap, and only along a ruler (a metal one works best), so you don't damage the fur.
After joining the head and body, the piece doesn't hold its shape and bends.
No wire pieces were inserted inside the piece for rigidity.
Insert 2 pieces of wire inside the piece and add extra glue — this keeps the body and head holding their shape.
After assembly, the fur on the spider's back or head lies in the wrong direction, making it look less realistic.
The nap's orientation wasn't accounted for when transferring the pattern onto the fur.
Make sure the nap on the back runs toward the future neck, and on the head runs from the back of the head toward the mouth, right at the pattern-transfer stage.
The spider's legs are sewn not just to the head but catch the body too.
The head and body weren't kept separate while sewing on the legs.
Sew the legs only to the head (to the leather base), without catching the body — this keeps the construction neater.
No more than three hours.
The author didn't try faux fur, since a matching shade was hard to find — an old fur hat or coat was used instead.
4 strips 16 cm long, 4 pieces 12 cm long, and 4 pieces 4 cm long.
Only in the direction of the nap, and only along a ruler (a metal one works best), so you don't damage the pelt.
Real spiders have 8 tiny eyes, but for the toy, a couple of large beads work just as well in place of small eyes.
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