Rubrics
How to sew a Teardrop backpack: prepare the outer and lining pieces, add 1.5 cm for the side zippers, mark the openings, stabilize the outer pieces with polyester batting, fusible interlining, or interfacing, then assemble the pockets, plackets, front, back, straps, and final backpack.
IntermediateFreeYou will make a Teardrop backpack with a rounded front, stabilized outer fabric, lining, side pockets, a main zipper, a handle, and adjustable straps.
The source allows solid, printed, or combined outer fabrics. For the outside, choose a sturdy fabric, waterproof if you like; for the inside, use any suitable lining fabric.
The side sections need two mirrored outer pieces and two mirrored lining pieces. If the mirrored pieces are wrong, the side pockets will not assemble properly.
The source specifically says to open the zipper before finishing the final edges; otherwise it will be hard to turn the backpack right side out after assembly.
Start by preparing the templates and the front, back, side, placket, pocket, handle, and strap pieces.
For the front, cut two pieces: one outer piece and one lining. For the back, cut the same outer and lining pieces, plus one additional piece.
The side sections use two different templates: an outer piece and a lining piece. Because the side section will have a pocket, add 1.5 cm for the zipper.
Lay the left lining piece over the right outer piece and find the widest distance for the pocket.
From the left outer point, draw a perpendicular line 15 mm long. At a distance of 1 cm, add an extension along the whole upper section, then draw a parallel line relative to the diagonal and find the center; this is the zipper-opening line.
Cut two mirrored outer side pieces and two mirrored lining pieces. Also prepare two lining-fabric pieces for the pockets, a handle strap, and the shoulder straps.
You need one zipper for the main backpack opening, two zippers for the side sections, and two plastic fittings for the straps. To join the front and back, prepare the upper and lower plackets in two sets: outer fabric and lining. Also prepare four strap pieces, one strap-attachment piece, and the strips that cover the zippers.
After cutting, stabilize the outer pieces and prepare the side pockets for the zippers.
Cut the outer pieces from sturdy fabric and the inner pieces from lining fabric. To help the backpack hold its shape, stabilize the outer pieces with quilted polyester batting, fusible interlining, or interfacing.
Join the fabric and stabilizer around the entire perimeter with an overlocker or a zigzag stitch. The lower placket does not have to be overlocked. If you like, quilt the front and the outer side pieces.
To keep the inside of the pockets neat, cut two more pieces from thin fabric using the outer side-piece template.
Fold the outer side-piece template along the zipper-opening line and place it over the two layers of cut fabric.
Carefully cut the zipper opening along the transferred line.
Assemble the top placket with the main zipper and the side pieces with the shorter zippers.
Fold the zipper strips in half and press them. Place the sturdy outer fabric right side up, add the pressed strip on top, then place the zipper right side down and the lining fabric right side down. Pin all the layers together.
Insert the short zippers into the side sections. Make sure the right side of the zipper faces the right side of the outer fabric.
Pin the pieces and stitch them. Then sew the prepared outer placket with the main zipper. Turn the stitched pieces right side out and sew a zigzag stitch along the top.
Next assemble the front, the lower strap tabs, the inner pocket, the handle, and the straps on the back.
Assemble the side-section pieces: fold the halves, then insert the zippers and the pressed strips between the outer fabric and the zipper. Stitch the pieces, turn them right side out, and sew a zigzag stitch as you did on the top placket. Then assemble the backpack front.
Pin the lining to the center section and secure the edges with an overlocker or a regular stitch. You can also secure the curved edges of the side pieces. Pin all three pieces together and sew them; from the front side, attach the lining side pieces. If you do not have an overlocker, use a regular stitch and cover the edges with binding.
Move the zipper sliders well away from the edge. Pin all layers at the zipper base and stitch around the whole perimeter with an overlocker or a regular stitch. Set the front piece aside for now.
For the lower straps, use the strap-attachment piece; you can strengthen it with another layer of fabric. Fold two fabric layers diagonally, pin them, cut through the center, and insert the long straps. Place the strap pieces right sides together, stitch, turn, and press.
Install the plastic fittings on the straps and secure them to the strap pieces.
Pin the pressed pocket to the back lining fabric. Keep the opening used for turning the pocket at the bottom.
Sew the pieces with any decorative stitch. Pin the template to the back piece and sew a decorative seam along the template edge.
Pin the handle strap and all shoulder straps in place. Sew them on with triple stitching so the straps do not tear away during use.
In the final stage, join the front, back, upper placket, and lower placket.
Use the zippered upper placket and the lower placket to join the front and back. On the upper placket, move the zipper slider away from the edge and hand-stitch the zipper end closed. Place the outer fabric of the lower placket with quilted batting right side up, then the upper placket right side down and the lining right side down. Stitch, turn, and finish the perimeter with an overlocker or zigzag, except at the zipper edge.
Pin the strip that has been closed into a loop to the centers of the top and bottom edges of the back, then distribute it evenly and pin it around the entire back perimeter.
Place the lining with the inner pocket on top, right side down. Stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening at the bottom for turning. Turn the piece right side out and hand-stitch the opening closed.
Join the straps together and neatly finish the strap ends. To assemble the backpack, place the front piece right side up and the back piece right side down, pin, and stitch around the perimeter.
Open the zipper and finish the raw edges with binding. The backpack is now ready; add decorative details if you like.
Before using the backpack, check the movement of the main and side zippers, the triple stitching on the straps, and the binding on the raw edges.
The source finishes the master class by suggesting any decorative details you like. A comment also notes that sewing it yourself makes it easy to choose any color palette.
You can sew the backpack from solid, printed, or combined fabric. This is stated directly in the source and supported by the discussion about choosing a color palette.
If you do not have an overlocker, use a regular stitch and cover the edges with binding.
This master class is also available in:
The opening or side piece is too narrow for the zipper.
The 1.5 cm zipper allowance was not added, or the 15 mm and 1 cm markings were measured incorrectly.
When drafting the side piece, add 1.5 cm for the zipper. Mark the opening with a 15 mm perpendicular line, a 1 cm extension, and a center line relative to the diagonal.
The right and left side pieces face the same way or do not align with the front.
The mirrored pieces were cut in the same direction.
For the sides, cut two mirrored outer pieces and two mirrored lining pieces. Before sewing, lay each pair right side and wrong side up and check the zipper direction.
After turning, the right side of the zipper faces the wrong direction.
During side-section assembly, the zipper was not placed right sides together with the outer fabric.
For the short side zippers, follow the source rule: the right side of the zipper should face the right side of the outer fabric.
The slider blocks stitching at the edge or gets trapped.
It was not moved away from the edge before stitching the perimeter.
Before stitching at the zipper base and before final assembly, move the zipper sliders well away from the edge.
You need to finish the perimeter and raw edges, but you do not have an overlocker.
The source allows a regular stitch instead of overlocking. Where the edges need to be hidden, cover them with binding.
The strap attachment looks weak.
The straps were sewn with one regular row of stitching.
Sew the handle and straps on with triple stitching, as specified in the source.
Yes. The source lists Olga Ozen’s video `C15D2RlPkto`; it is preserved in the resources section and in the VideoObject markup.
The source recommends a sturdy fabric, waterproof if desired. Any suitable lining fabric can be used for the inner pieces.
To help the backpack hold its shape, stabilize the outer pieces with quilted polyester batting, fusible interlining, or interfacing.
You need one zipper for the main backpack opening and two zippers for the side sections.
The extra 1.5 cm is for the side-pocket zipper. Without this addition, the side pocket may not assemble correctly from the template.
Yes. The source says several times that you can use a regular stitch instead of overlocking and cover the edges with binding.
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One of the best backpack shapes: roomy, but still compact. When you sew it yourself, you can choose any color palette you like.