Rubrics
Learn how to sew an ironing board cover: choose ticking, heavy cotton, or calico, measure the cover for your board, add 5-6 cm seam allowances, cut the padding without allowances, and secure the cover with elastic, ties, or an upholstery stapler.
BeginnerFreeYou will make a new ironing board cover. It can be removable with elastic or ties, or fixed with an upholstery stapler for the smoothest tension.
If the fabric has a small print, make sure it does not bleed or leave marks on clothing while ironing. The source does not recommend synthetic or blended fabrics.
If the old padding still looks good, you can keep it. If it is worn, first use it to make a pattern, then replace it with light-colored batting or cotton padding.
Before cutting, choose the fabric, padding, and attachment method.
Ticking, heavy cotton, and calico work best for this cover. A plain light fabric is safest, but a small print is also possible if it does not bleed.
The source does not recommend blended or synthetic fabrics because they do not handle prolonged contact with a hot iron well.
First measure the ironing board. For a standard length of 120 cm or more, you will need fabric 140-150 cm wide; the source uses a 50 cm cut. For a small 80 cm board, calico or cotton 1 m wide will work.
A removable cover can be made with elastic or with 4-6 ties. If the cover does not need to be removed for washing, it can be attached with an upholstery stapler.
The easiest way is to trace the shape directly from the board.
Lay the fabric wrong side up. Place the folded ironing board upside down on top and trace around it with chalk, a pencil, or a fabric marker.
Add 5-6 cm on all sides for allowances. Then cut out the cover piece.
Cut the padding without allowances from a ready guide: trace the old pad onto batting, or make a paper pattern first.
This version is convenient to use, but it needs a neat casing and final tightening on the board.
Finish the cover edge with a serger or zigzag stitch.
Fold the edge under, pin it or baste it, and leave an opening for threading the elastic.
Sew a straight stitch along the basting or pins. If you sew over pinned fabric, remove the pins as you go so you do not damage or dull the needle.
Thread the elastic through the casing with an elastic threader or a regular safety pin. Do not sew the elastic ends together yet: first you need to fit the cover on the board.
The source notes that experienced sewists can stitch the elastic directly around the edge; then fitting and tightening are not needed.
Lay the padding in place, put the finished cover on the board, and pull it tight. Only then sew the elastic ends together and trim the excess.
The sewing is almost the same as the elastic version, but ties are added instead of an opening for elastic.
To secure the cover, prepare 4-6 ties from firm tape or binding.
After finishing the raw edge, pin the future ties in the right places under the fold and stitch around the whole perimeter. Do not leave an elastic opening for this version.
After placing the padding, pull the top over the board and secure the ties underneath.
This method gives even tension, but the cover can no longer be removed for washing.
For stapling, make a wider fold so the fabric holds securely on the underside of the board.
First place three staples at the back, then one staple at the front center, two beside the center staple, and three pairs along the board. Add folds on the inside if needed.
This fastening order helps prevent skewing and gives the cover even tension.
After installation, make sure the padding lies flat, the edge does not pull across the working surface, and the cover does not slip or form wrinkles around the edges.
Choose elastic or ties if you want to wash the cover regularly; both versions can be removed from the board.
If perfectly even tension matters more than washing, attach the cover with an upholstery stapler.
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The cover edges shift or wrinkle while ironing.
The cover is not tight enough, or the attachment method is not suitable.
For a removable cover, tighten the elastic only after fitting it on the board. For smooth fixed tension, use the stapling order from the source.
The cover may deform or leave marks.
A blended or synthetic fabric was chosen.
Use ticking, heavy cotton, or calico. The source specifically does not recommend blended or synthetic fabrics for long contact with a hot iron.
There is a risk of marks on garments after ironing.
The printed fabric bleeds.
A plain white or light fabric is safest. If you choose a small print, test first to make sure it does not bleed.
The cover does not sit smoothly, or there is not enough elastic.
The elastic ends were sewn together before fitting.
Thread the elastic, but do not sew the ends right away. First place the cover on the board, pull it tight, then sew the elastic ends together and trim the excess.
The tension is uneven.
The staples were placed without a sequence.
Follow the order from the source: three staples at the back, one at the front center, two next to the center, and three pairs along the board, adding inside folds if needed.
The source recommends ticking, heavy cotton, or calico. A white or light fabric is safest; a print is acceptable if it does not bleed.
No. The source does not recommend blended or synthetic fabrics because they do not handle long contact with a hot iron well.
For a board 120 cm or longer, the source uses fabric 140-150 cm wide and a 50 cm cut. For a small 80 cm board, calico or cotton 1 m wide will work.
After tracing the upside-down board, add 5-6 cm on all sides for allowances.
You can keep the old padding if it is in good condition. For new padding, the source suggests light-colored batting or cotton padding.
Elastic and ties are better if the cover needs to be removed and washed. Stapling gives even tension, but the cover cannot be removed without replacing it.
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