Rubrics
Sewing a shopper bag from a T-shirt and a ready polyester bag: 4 rectangles, handles 60 x 8 cm, handle offset 11 cm, 10 cm bottom fold, and bias-bound side seams.
BeginnerFreeYou will make a double-layer shopper bag: decorative T-shirt fabric on the outside, a polyester base inside, reinforced handles, and a boxed bottom. The source calls the bag sturdy thanks to the reinforced handles, double layer, and bias-bound side seams, but the load should still match the fabric and seam quality.
In the original version, the factory polyester bag reinforces the soft T-shirt fabric and becomes the inner layer. In the discussion, the author clarified that if you sew from burlap-like fabric, denim, or another sturdy fabric, you can skip the ready store bag.
From the lower part of the T-shirt, you need 2 strips 60 cm long and 8 cm wide. If there is not enough continuous length, the author allows sewing each handle blank from two pieces.
First take the T-shirt and ready bag apart into matching rectangles, then cut the strips for the handles.
Cut off the upper part of the T-shirt from the armholes upward. Match the remaining part to the factory polyester bag, trim the excess, and remove the old seams so you get 4 rectangles of the same size.
From the lower part of the T-shirt, cut 2 strips 60 cm long and 8 cm wide. If the fabric is not long enough for full strips, piece each blank from two parts.
In this tutorial, the source handle size is 60 x 8 cm.
The handles are reinforced separately and then sewn between the outer textile layer and the polyester lining.
It is best to reinforce the handles with firm fusible interfacing. If you do not have it, cut 4 cm wide strips from the handles of the store-bag base and use them as reinforcement. Fold the handle edges toward the center, pin, press, and stitch.
One commenter suggested inserting strips of soft rubberized polyurethane mesh into the handles: this may add shape and shoulder comfort, but it is not required in the original method.
Pin the handles to the textile base, placing them 11 cm from the edges. Cover with the polyester lining and sew. Repeat the same for the second half of the bag.
Turn the pieces right side out and secure them with a straight stitch along the fold line. At the handle joins, you can add an extra line of stitching.
Before assembling the bottom, make sure the handles on both halves of the bag are symmetrical and the 11 cm offset is the same.
The main construction detail of the shopper is the 10 cm fold that creates the boxed bottom.
Place the front and back bag pieces together and sew them along the bottom edge.
Make a 10 cm wide fold, using the photo as a guide. Pin the layers and align the fold line so the corners come out even.
The discussion specifically praised how neat this bottom looks. Do not rush the seam: first align the fold line and pin the fold.
Sew the side seams, finish them with bias tape for extra strength, then turn the bag right side out and smooth all folds.
To strengthen the bottom, you can make an extra insert from cardboard or plastic covered with fabric. This is an optional step from the source text.
If you plan to wash the bag often, a removable plastic insert is more practical than cardboard.
Open out the boxed bottom, check that the handles are symmetrical, and see whether the outer T-shirt fabric pulls against the polyester lining. Add a removable bottom insert if needed.
According to the author’s clarification in the discussion, if you sew an eco bag from burlap-like fabric, denim, or another sturdy fabric, you can skip the ready factory bag.
If the lower part of the T-shirt is not long enough for 60 cm strips, the handle blanks can be sewn from two pieces.
Tip from the discussion: you can insert strips of soft rubberized polyurethane mesh into the handles so they hold shape better and feel more comfortable on the shoulder.
This master class is also available in:
The outer layer and lining do not match in size.
The T-shirt and factory bag were not aligned before trimming, or old seams were left in place.
First align the T-shirt with the polyester bag, then trim the excess and remove seams so you get 4 rectangles of the same size.
The handles do not hold their shape after stitching.
There is no interfacing or other reinforcement.
Reinforce the handles with firm fusible interfacing. If you do not have it, use 4 cm wide strips cut from the handles of the store-bag base; as an option from the discussion, you can insert soft rubberized polyurethane mesh.
With denim or burlap-like fabric, the double layer seems unnecessary.
The source method is designed for soft T-shirt fabric.
If you sew from burlap-like fabric, denim, or another sturdy fabric, the author clarified in the discussion that you can skip the factory-bag step.
The boxed bottom looks crooked, with corners at different heights.
The 10 cm fold was not aligned before sewing the side seams.
Form a 10 cm wide fold, align the fold line, and pin the layers before stitching. Only then sew the side seams.
The bag should carry shopping, but the side seams look unprotected.
The seams were not finished with bias tape, or the fabric is too soft.
Finish the side seams with bias tape, as in the source. For the bottom, add a separate cardboard or plastic insert covered with fabric if needed.
In the original version, it reinforces the soft T-shirt jersey and works as polyester lining. For sturdy fabric such as denim or burlap-like fabric, the author said in the discussion that you can skip this step.
Cut 2 strips from the lower part of the T-shirt, each 60 cm long and 8 cm wide. If there is not enough fabric, you can piece the strips from two parts.
Pin the handles to the textile base 11 cm from each edge.
First sew the front and back pieces along the bottom edge, then form a 10 cm wide fold, pin it, align the fold line, and after that sew the side seams.
It is optional. The source says you can strengthen the bottom with a cardboard or plastic insert covered with fabric.
Log in to track your project, attach photos, and publish your result into the shared feed.
Log inLog in to comment and follow this discussion.
Log in

@Dzhemma, if you are going to sew an eco bag from burlap-like fabric, denim, and so on, then of course you can skip the step with the factory bag.

I agree with Ninel: the pattern seems very simple, but the result is wonderful. My question is this: if, for example, I sew it from denim or another sturdy fabric, is it not necessary to duplicate it? As I understand it, the factory bag here is needed to reinforce the T-shirt jersey?
Komok.me
Komok is a craft community for master classes, lessons, and projects in sewing, knitting, and other crafts.
Recently in one tutorial I saw rubberized mesh made of soft polyurethane inserted into handles, cut into strips :unsure: That really impressed me: surely those handles not only hold their shape well, but are also comfortable on the shoulder because of the springy layer. So, if it is relevant to you, keep it in mind ;)