Beautiful and Practical: An Unusual Hand Stitch for Finishing a Raw Edge

Step 1

This stitch is designed to finish and embellish the edges of a variety of items—handkerchiefs, scarves, wraps, or blouses. I recommend using bright, contrasting embroidery floss. The stitch may seem complicated, but the technique is actually quite simple—once you get the hang of it, you’ll be able to work almost automatically. 😉

Illustration 2

Step 3

To make a practice sample, prepare:
• fabric—ideally cotton or linen;
• embroidery floss;
• a needle;
• sharp scissors;
• a ruler;
• tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

Illustration 4

Step 5

For the sample, cut a 30 × 30 cm square—it will make a standard handkerchief. Next, use a marker to draw lines parallel to the cut edges, 1.3 cm in from the edge. Then make notches along these lines for each stitch—depending on the pattern you want, space them 1, 1.5, 2, or 2.5 cm apart. If your fabric is plaid, it’s even easier, since you can use the pattern as a guide. Draw the lines and marks on the wrong side, with the notches facing inward from the edge toward the center.

Illustration 6

Step 7

Now roll the edge of the handkerchief, turning the fabric to the wrong side.

Illustration 8

Step 9

Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Pass the thread through an opening at the side of the rolled hem and bring it out at the first notch.

Illustration 10

Step 11

Make a vertical stitch, catching the rolled edge. Bring the needle out beneath the first insertion point, under the roll.

Illustration 12

Step 13

Make a small stitch by inserting the needle into the folded edge above the previous one. Then run it inside the roll and bring it out at the next notch.

Illustration 14

Step 15

Make another stitch, catching the folded edge. Repeat the small stitch and bring the needle out at the next notch.

Illustration 16

Step 17

Continue working the decorative stitch until you are 1.3 cm from the edge (the line parallel to the cut edge).

Illustration 18

Step 19

Fold the corner and bring the needle and thread out through it.

Illustration 20

Step 21

Continue stitching with the now-familiar sequence: catch the edge with the thread, make a small stitch, bring the needle out at the next notch, and repeat until you reach the next corner. Finish all sides of the handkerchief in the same way.

Illustration 22

Step 23

You can make the stitches closer together or farther apart, and even create patterns with them—simply plan the spacing in advance and mark it out.