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Learn mosaic crochet: how to read the chart, work it in rows, crochet it in the round, and expand it from the center — all without long floats on the wrong side.
BeginnerFreeMosaic crochet gives you a crisp colorwork pattern with a tidy wrong side. This tutorial shows how to read the chart, where to work chain-stitch gaps, and how to close those gaps with a double crochet that catches the bar two rows below.
Choose a chart with a clear repeat and at least two contrasting colors. In the source material, dark X's mark one color and light X's mark the other.
In the sample, each square stands for one single crochet stitch. In more complex patterns, arrows mark the repeat — the section that repeats across the row.
Dark X's on the chart mark one color, light X's mark the other. Don't just look at the color of each square — also watch the repeat arrows: that's the section that repeats across the row.
A small arrow means you work a double crochet two rows below the current row instead of a regular single crochet. This fills in the gaps and makes the pattern crisp.
An empty gap is first formed with chain stitches, then closed on the next repeat with a double crochet that catches the bar below it.
The classic version is worked in turned rows. You switch colors every 2 rows, and the wrong-side rows are worked in the same color as the right-side row before them.
Work a row of single crochet in your first color, turn your work, and chain 1 to start the next row.
In the source example: 4 stitches in your second color, 1 stitch in your first color, 6 stitches again in your second color. Next, work 4 single crochets, and where the chart shows one blank square, chain 2 instead. If the chart shows 2 blank squares in a row, chain 3 instead. Then work 6 single crochets and continue this way to the end of the row.
Work row 3, and every wrong-side row after it, exactly like the right-side row, in the same color.
Following the chart: 2 stitches in your first color, 2 gaps, 3 stitches in your first color, 2 gaps, and so on, repeating the pattern. Where the chart shows an arrow, work 2 single crochets, chain 3, and 1 double crochet, catching the chain bar two rows below.
Work every stitch shown on the chart as a single crochet, and work chain stitches wherever the chart shows a gap. From row 6 onward, keep following the same principle.
This version works well for a decorative pillow cover, a bedspread, a throw, or a chair cushion. In principle, it's similar to a granny square.
The fabric grows outward from the center at exactly 4 corners. You switch yarn colors the same way as in the classic version: every 2 rows. This gives you a pattern on the right side and a tidy wrong side.
In the source material, the from-the-center version has its own dedicated video tutorial. It's helpful if you want to see the fabric expanding in real time.
The in-the-round version is used for rugs and other pieces where the fabric expands outward in a circle.
In the in-the-round version, you also switch yarn every 2 rows. You can use more than two colors, and the chart marks where to increase and how many stitches to add to expand the fabric.
To avoid floats, catch every yarn that isn't being worked in the current row and carry it along under your hook. This makes the fabric denser and the wrong side neater.
If you pull the unused strands too tight, the circular piece can pucker. If you leave them too loose, the wrong side will look uneven.
The source material suggests using this technique for both accessories and home decor. The photos in this section are shown as examples of finished pieces.
Mosaic patterns work great for bags, phone cases, and wallets: the pattern comes out dense and eye-catching.
You can use the technique for seamless cowls and hats worked in the round, as well as for mitts, scarves, and wraps.
Mosaic crochet looks great on throw pillows, including for a kid's room. This technique is also a great way to use up leftover yarn and make everything from bracelets to clothing for the whole family.
After a few repeats, check both the right side and the wrong side: the pattern should look crisp, and the unused yarns shouldn't form long floats.
In the in-the-round version, you can use significantly more than two colors. It's important to hide the unused yarns on the wrong side so the fabric stays neat.
The from-the-center version is especially handy for pillow covers, bedspreads, throws, and cushions, where the fabric grows outward from the middle.
This master class is also available in:
After the chain-stitch gaps, the pattern looks full of holes instead of mosaic.
The double crochet two rows below was skipped at the spot marked with a small arrow.
First form the gap with chain stitches, then close it on the next repeat with a double crochet, catching the chain bar two rows below.
The repeated pattern doesn't match the chart.
The repeat wasn't read as a repeating section, or the blank squares were miscounted.
Mark the repeat on the chart with arrows separately. For one blank square, chain 2; for two blank squares, chain 3, as noted in the source material.
The unused yarns hang loose on the wrong side.
The yarns not being worked in the current row aren't being carried under the hook.
In the in-the-round version, catch and carry the unused yarns under your hook. This removes the floats and makes the fabric denser.
It's sometimes called lazy jacquard crochet: a colorwork pattern created without long floats on the wrong side. Usually you work two rows in one color, then two rows in another.
Each square on the chart represents one single crochet stitch. Dark and light squares mark different colors, arrows highlight the repeat, and a small arrow marks where to work a double crochet two rows below.
In the source material, one blank square gets 2 chain stitches, and two blank squares in a row get 3 chain stitches. Later, the gap is closed with a double crochet that catches the bar two rows below.
Yes. In the in-the-round version, you switch yarn every 2 rows, the chart shows where to increase and how many stitches to add, and you carry the unused yarns under your hook.
The source material lists bags, phone cases, wallets, cowls, hats, mitts, scarves, wraps, throw pillows, blankets, and cushions.
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I mastered lazy jacquard on knitting needles a long time ago — it's a real lifesaver for knitting socks. I haven't tried it with a crochet hook yet, I'll have to learn this new technique.