Mohair Spiderweb Jumper: Gauge, Raglan, and Assembly
Step-by-step calculations for a mohair spiderweb jumper: 7 skeins of Bbb Soft Dream held double, finished length 60-65 cm, width under the armholes 57-60 cm, gauge 14 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm after blocking. The back and front are worked the same way, the sleeves separately, then the pieces are seamed and a 1x1 ribbed neckline finishes the neck.
BeginnerFree
Translated
Things you will learn
The original design calls for Bbb Soft Dream yarn: 75% mohair, 25% silk, 200 m per 25 g, 7 skeins total; worked held double.
Measure your gauge swatch after wet blocking: the source gauge is 14 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm, including edge stitches.
The back and front are worked the same way: cast on 78 stitches, 12 rows of 1x1 ribbing, then the main body and raglan shaping with decreases on the specified rows.
The sleeves start at 32 stitches, widen to 54 stitches, and get their own 70-row raglan.
All increases, yarn overs, and decreases are worked next to the edges, and the remaining stitches are left live until assembly.
What You'll Get
The result is a light, semi-sheer mohair spiderweb jumper with raglan lines, ribbing at the hem, cuffs, and neckline. In the original calculations, the finished length is 60-65 cm and the width under the armholes is 57-60 cm. The photos show the fit of the finished jumper and color variations of the result, not individual technical steps.
The fit of the finished jumper and the neckline.A color variation of the result from the original photos.
Materials and tools
Materials
Bbb Soft Dream, 7 skeins, 75% mohair, 25% silk, 200 m per 25 g; worked held double
Tools
Needles, size 5 or 6 mm, for the main body
Needles, size 3.5 or 4 mm, for 1x1 ribbing
Circular needles, for gathering live stitches and knitting the neckline ribbing
Spare needle, for the held live stitches of the back and front
Tapestry needle, for seaming the pieces and weaving in ends
Preparation
Work Held Double
The source specifically notes that this mohair yarn is worked held double. If you knit with a single strand or a different yarn weight, the stitch count and gauge can no longer be considered the same.
Check Your Gauge After Blocking First
Target gauge: 14 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm, including edge stitches. The swatch should be measured after wet blocking, as stated in the source.
Plan for Separate Pieces
All pieces are knit separately: the back, the front, and two sleeves. They are then seamed together, and the neckline ribbing is worked after gathering the live stitches.
Size, Yarn, and Gauge
Before casting on, lock in the original calculations. They are tied to this specific fine mohair yarn, held double, and to the gauge after blocking.
Prepare the Yarn
Take 7 skeins of Bbb Soft Dream: 75% mohair, 25% silk, 200 m per 25 g. Work held double, as stated in the original description.
Split Your Needles by Task
The main body is worked on 5 mm or 6 mm needles. Use 3.5 mm or 4 mm needles for the ribbing.
Check the Size and Gauge
Source targets: finished length 60-65 cm, width under the armholes 57-60 cm. Gauge after blocking — 14 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm, including edge stitches.
Don't Measure the Swatch Before Blocking
Mohair fabric can open up and change after blocking. In the source, the gauge is given specifically after wet blocking.
Back and Front
The back and front are worked the same way. Work all increases, yarn overs, and decreases next to the edges.
Cast On 78 Stitches and Knit the Ribbing
Cast on 78 stitches for each piece. Using the 3.5 mm needles, knit 12 rows of 1x1 ribbing.
Knit the Main Body Up to 86 Stitches
After the ribbing, knit 44 rows. In this section, work 2 increases next to the edges four times to bring the piece up to 86 stitches.
Shape the Back and Front Raglan
Knit 70 rows of raglan shaping, counting the first raglan row as row 1. Decreases fall on odd rows: 3, 5, 9, 11, 15, 17, 21, 23, 27, 29, 33, 35, 39, 41, 45, 47, 51, 53, 57, 59, 63, 65, and 69. On the remaining odd rows, work the yarn over without a decrease as given in the source: yarn over, then 2 stitches together. Put the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Count From the Start of the Raglan
The row list applies to the raglan shaping, not to the whole piece.
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked as separate pieces: first the ribbing, then widening the fabric, then the raglan.
Cast On 32 Stitches for the Sleeve
Cast on 32 stitches for each sleeve and knit 12 rows of 1x1 ribbing.
Widen the Sleeve to 54 Stitches
After the ribbing, knit 48 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each edge every 4th row. Work 11 such increases in total; you should end up with 54 stitches on the needle.
Shape the Sleeve Raglan
For the sleeve raglan, knit 70 rows. Work the decreases every 4th row, 17 times total, as given in the source: yarn over, then 3 stitches together. On the remaining even rows, work the yarn over without a decrease: yarn over, then 2 stitches together. Leave the remaining stitches live.
Assembly and Neckline
After all the pieces are knit, gather the live stitches onto circular needles, then seam the piece and finish the neckline.
Gather the Pieces on Circular Needles
Transfer the live stitches of the pieces onto circular needles and seam the garment. The source doesn't spell out a specific seaming order, so the important thing here is to keep the live stitches ready for the neckline.
Knit the Neckline Ribbing
Knit 12 rows of 1x1 ribbing around the neckline. On the first row, at the seam, work 3 stitches together, then bind off at the end.
Weave in Ends and Dry Flat
Weave in the yarn ends, wash the garment, and leave it to dry laid flat.
Finish and variations
Finish
Final Blocking and Drying
After binding off the neckline, weave in the ends, wash the jumper, and dry it flat. This is the source's final step and an important part of the mohair spiderweb fit.
Variations
White Jumper
Two of the original photos show a white, semi-sheer jumper with ribbing at the hem, cuffs, and neckline.
Pink Version
The third original photo shows the same type of airy jumper in pink yarn.
An Idea From the Discussion
In a comment, this piece is described as an option for a mild autumn: the mohair spiderweb fabric adds a little warmth without feeling like a heavy layer. This is a reader impression, not a separate calculation.
The finished fabric comes out wider or narrower than the expected 57-60 cm under the armholes.
Likely cause
The gauge was checked before wet blocking or with a different yarn weight.
How to fix it
Knit the swatch held double and measure it after blocking. Source target: 14 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm, including edge stitches.
The Jumper Loses Its Spiderweb Effect
Problem
The fabric comes out too dense or too loose.
Likely cause
The original calculations are tied to Bbb Soft Dream at 200 m per 25 g and being worked held double.
How to fix it
If you swap yarns, don't carry the calculations over automatically. First get the gauge to 14 sts x 23 rows after blocking.
The Back or Front Raglan Count Gets Thrown Off
Problem
The decreases don't land on the right rows.
Likely cause
The rows were counted from the start of the piece instead of the start of the raglan.
How to fix it
Start a new count from the first raglan row. For the back and front, the decrease rows (odd) are: 3, 5, 9, 11, 15, 17, 21, 23, 27, 29, 33, 35, 39, 41, 45, 47, 51, 53, 57, 59, 63, 65, 69.
The Increase and Yarn Over Lines Look Uneven
Problem
The edge of the piece doesn't look tidy before assembly.
Likely cause
The increases, yarn overs, or decreases weren't worked next to the edges.
How to fix it
Follow the original rule: all stitch increases and yarn overs are worked next to the edges.
The Neckline Bulks Up at the Seam
Problem
Extra bulk appears on the first row of the neckline ribbing.
Likely cause
The reduction called for at the seam wasn't worked.
How to fix it
On the first row of the neckline, at the seam, work 3 stitches together, then continue with 12 rows of 1x1 ribbing.
The Jumper Stretches Out After Washing
Problem
The lightweight mohair fabric loses its shape while drying.
Likely cause
The garment wasn't dried flat.
How to fix it
After washing, lay the jumper out flat and leave it to dry, as stated in the source.
?FAQ
How much yarn do I need for the spiderweb jumper?
The original calculations call for 7 skeins of Bbb Soft Dream: 75% mohair, 25% silk, 200 m per 25 g. It's worked held double.
What needles do I need?
The main body is worked on 5 mm or 6 mm needles, and the ribbing on 3.5 mm or 4 mm needles. You'll also need circular needles for the neckline.
What size is this master class calculated for?
The source gives finished measurements of 60-65 cm in length and 57-60 cm in width under the armholes. For a different fit, you'll need to recalculate using your own gauge.
When should I measure my gauge?
After wet blocking. The source's target gauge is 14 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm, including edge stitches.
Are the front and back worked differently?
No. The source states directly that the back and front are worked the same way.
What do I do with the remaining stitches after the raglan?
The stitches aren't bound off right away: for the back and front, they're moved to a spare needle, and for the sleeves, they're left live. The pieces are then gathered onto circular needles and the neckline is worked.
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Oh, I can't look at things like this calmly :love: A perfect option for a mild autumn: the mohair spiderweb fabric keeps you warm when it's chilly, without overheating. And that raglan-style cut looks amazing – it flatters any figure 🥰
BeginnerFree
Oh, I can't look at things like this calmly :love: A perfect option for a mild autumn: the mohair spiderweb fabric keeps you warm when it's chilly, without overheating. And that raglan-style cut looks amazing – it flatters any figure 🥰