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A detailed tutorial for a bead-embroidered whale brooch: transfer the design onto felt, set the tail and front flipper with rhinestones, embroider the belly and back outlines with beads in different shades, cut out the figure from felt, reinforce it with a cardboard backing and a leather back piece with a clasp, then finish the edge with a beaded border.
Beginner2 hrFreeYou'll get a bead-embroidered whale brooch with rhinestones on a felt base, finished with a leather backing and a clasp — a great summer accessory for light-colored clothes.
I strongly recommend stocking up on everything you'll need: felt (blue, gray, or light blue), beads (3 colors), any sew-on teardrop rhinestones in a matching size and color — 4 pieces. To turn the whale into a brooch, you'll also need a small piece of leather or faux leather and a clasp.
Sketch out the design — it doesn't have to be this exact one: there are plenty of similar figures online, so pick a little whale you like. Transfer it onto the felt.
The work starts with the rhinestones, and the eye is made using one of a few methods.
Start with the rhinestones — set the tail and front flipper.
You can make the eye with a bead, a black half-bead, or by embroidering a French knot.
The belly outline is embroidered with light gray beads.
Embroider along the belly outline — use light gray beads for this.
For anyone new to beadwork, here's a reminder of the basic sewing rules — it's not complicated.
The back outline and the bottom of the tail are embroidered with dark blue beads, and a rhinestone is set into the back.
Sew the back outline and the bottom of the tail with dark blue beads. Then set the largest teardrop rhinestone into the back.
The belly is embroidered with nearly straight lines, and the main part of the figure is filled with beads in a staggered pattern.
Now for the belly: sew nearly straight lines that mimic the whale's real belly stripes. There's a small bit of "belly" behind the lower flipper too — don't miss it.
Now for the main body embroidery — place the beads more randomly here, while still keeping a certain staggered pattern.
After the embroidery, the figure is cut out of the felt and reinforced with a cardboard backing and a leather back piece with a clasp.
Cut our little cutie out of a solid piece of felt, carefully following right along the edge of the embroidery.
Reinforce the felt with a cardboard backing, and make a back piece out of leather or faux leather — mark out the slits for the clasp on it right away.
Insert the clasp into the leather backing and glue it to the back of the figure.
The edge of the figure is finished with a beaded border by threading a needle through every layer using a specific technique.
All that's left is to finish the edges: secure the thread with a loop, and thread on the first bead.
Pierce the needle through the leather backing and every layer after it, then thread it back through the bead.
Thread the second (third, and so on) bead onto the needle and do the same thing.
Secure the thread and trim it — you can dab the end with clear glue from the wrong side just to be safe.
And... the magic is complete — the whale is ready to carry us off to distant seas!
You don't have to copy this exact whale design — there are plenty of similar figures online, so feel free to pick a little whale you like.
The whale doesn't have to go on clothing — it looks just as good on a handbag, a beach bag, or even a hat.
This master class is also available in:
After finishing the edge with beads, the row comes out uneven, with some beads falling out of line.
The final thread wasn't passed back through all the edge beads in one straight line after they were placed.
Once you've placed all the edge beads, pass the final thread through every one of them in a single straight line — this evens out the edge and pulls any stray beads back into line.
After embroidering the main body, the beads end up with no order at all, or they look monotonous.
A staggered arrangement wasn't kept while filling in the main body.
Place the beads on the main body more randomly by color, but still keep a certain staggered pattern to their arrangement.
When embroidering with Chinese beads, some of them turn out to be a different gauge, which spoils how neat the row looks.
Lower-quality Chinese beads were used without sorting them by gauge first.
Sort through the Chinese beads and pick out ones of a matching gauge, tossing the mismatched ones, or, if you can afford it, use Czech beads instead — they're much nicer to sew with.
Felt (blue, gray, or light blue), beads in three colors, four sew-on teardrop rhinestones in a matching size and color, a small piece of leather or faux leather for the backing, and a clasp.
With a bead, a black half-bead, or by embroidering a French knot.
Monofilament — it cinches into knots well, is very sturdy despite being thin, and lets you rethread the same bead more than once, even a very small one (size 15); fishing line doesn't work as well for this, even though it's thicker and sturdier and is usually used for beaded jewelry weaving.
Once all the edge beads are placed, pass the final thread through all of them in one straight line — this evens out the edge and pulls any stray beads back into line.
Chinese beads of decent quality can be sorted and used if you toss out the mismatched ones (roughly a third), but if you can afford it, Czech beads are much nicer to sew with.
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Super neat work! The border is especially impressive — laying the beads out that evenly must take some experience. I've tried making brooches myself, it's a lot of fun, but I can't get that level of quality yet. I feel like the whale would look great not just on clothes, but on a handbag too.

Thanks for the kind words! 😍
Yes, monofilament and fishing line are both good, but each in their own way: fishing line is thicker and sturdier, and holds its shape well — it's usually used for weaving jewelry pieces (rings, bracelets, chokers, keychains). But monofilament is better for embroidery: it cinches into knots nicely when you need it to, and is very sturdy despite being thin. In fact, it's precisely because it's thin that you can rethread it through the same bead more than once, even a very small one (size 15). That trick doesn't work with fishing line 😉

. In fact, it's precisely because it's thin that you can rethread it through the same bead more than once, even a very small one (size 15). That trick doesn't work with fishing line 😉
That's such an important point! If you need to secure a bead or go over the outline twice, you need a very fine needle and thread. By the way, monofilament is also sturdier than regular spool thread, which is why I stocked up on some))
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I'd also add that you need the right thread. I don't have much experience making brooches, but thin fishing line and monofilament behave very differently. Any tips on what you used? And I also want to praise the author of this one))) The little crystals are just mesmerizing — only 3 elements, and the brooch looks so expensive! I still can't bring myself to place an order, though — good materials are the key to a good result, you're not going to embroider a whale like this with mismatched Chinese beads!Show full quoteCollapse