How to Take Measurements for a Bra Pattern

One of the first challenges in sewing lingerie is taking accurate measurements before drafting the pattern.

Important: If your breasts need support to hold their shape, take these measurements while wearing a thin, supportive bra with no foam padding, or with the thinnest possible padding.

How to Take the Measurements
You will need:

• two elastic bands
• a flexible measuring tape
• a well-fitting bra (optional)

Tie the first elastic band around the base of the bust, where the breasts meet the torso. Tie the second band at the level where the bra cup ends. Adjust both bands so they remain parallel to each other across the back and parallel to the floor.

Now take these measurements:

• bust circumference;
• underbust circumference;
• breast width 1;
• breast width 2;
• bust height.

How Do You Take Bust Measurements?
Bust circumference is measured around the fullest part of the bust, passing across its center and staying between and parallel to the two elastic bands.

Underbust circumference is measured along the lower elastic band.

Breast width 1 is measured from one end of the bra underwire, over the fullest point of the breast, to the other end at center front. If this is your first time taking the measurement, it is easier to do so while wearing a bra.

Breast width 2 is easiest to measure with a bra that fits well. Measure the straight-line distance from one underwire edge to the other.

If you do not have a well-fitting bra, measure directly on the body. At each side of the breast, position a piece of elastic, apply a strip of tape, or mark a line—whichever method works best. Each guide should extend to the underbust elastic. Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure the distance.

Bust height is the distance between the upper and lower elastic bands along the center front, between the breasts (the blue strip in the picture).

Key Formulas for Drafting a Bra Pattern

Coefficient = (bust circumference – underbust circumference) divided by 6.
As a rough guide, bust size 3–4 gives a coefficient of about 2.8; size 5–6, about 3.3; and size 2–3, about 2.3.
Dart intake = breast width 1 – (breast width 2 + coefficient)