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A short tutorial showing a simple way to close the crown of a hat knit in stockinette stitch: setting up the stitches, spacing out the decreases, narrowing the top gradually, and gathering the remaining stitches with the working yarn.
BeginnerFreeYou'll get a simple, neat crown for a stockinette-stitch hat. The method isn't tied to one size — what matters more is spacing the decreases out evenly and making sure the top ends up neither too pointed nor too flat.
Only start the decreases once the main body of the hat is knit to the height you want. Starting too early pulls the crown down and makes the fit shallower.
Before the first decrease round, count your stitches and figure out how many equal sections you can divide them into. If the number doesn't divide evenly, spread the extra stitches across the sections instead of leaving them all in one spot.
A neat crown starts with a clear decrease plan, not with pulling the yarn tight.
Divide your stitches into several equal sections and place markers. The more even the sections, the calmer the crown will look.
Place the decreases in the same spot relative to each marker — for example, right before the marker, right after it, or symmetrically around it. The key is not to change the approach from section to section.
On a smooth fabric, any random shift stands out more, so consistency in the decreases matters more than a complicated pattern.
Move gradually: the hat should narrow evenly, without pulling tight at one point.
Work a decrease at every marked spot following your chosen method. After the round, check that the number of decreases matches in every section.
If a decrease is missed in one section, it's best to fix it right away. On the next rounds, that mistake will show up as a visible line or a lopsided crown.
Keep knitting decrease rounds, following the same logic near each marker. If your plan calls for plain rounds between decreases, don't add them randomly — they need to repeat the same way all the way around the crown.
Once the stitch count gets low and the stitches start stretching on your circular needles, switch to double-pointed needles, magic loop, or another method you're comfortable using for a small diameter.
The final step should be gentle: a regular bind-off isn't needed here.
Once there are only a few stitches left on the needles, cut the yarn with plenty of extra. The tail needs to be long enough to pass through all the remaining stitches and secure on the wrong side.
Using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the open stitches, slip them off the needles, and gently pull the center snug. Don't yank it — pull it tight gradually, keeping an eye on the shape.
Bring the tail through to the wrong side, secure it in the fabric, and weave in the end. Then smooth the crown out by hand and check for any lopsidedness in the decrease lines.
After securing the yarn, gently smooth the crown out by hand. If the yarn can handle wet or steam blocking, lightly steam the hat without pressing hard on the texture or the ribbing.
If you like how the crown turned out, write down the stitch count before the decreases, the number of sections, and the round sequence. It'll speed up your next hat in similar yarn.
If you want a noticeably wedged look, use fewer decrease lines and repeat them in the exact same spots. This has a stronger effect on the stockinette stitch's pattern.
If you want a calm, rounded shape, spread the decreases more evenly across more sections. The key is not to make the layout random.
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The top of the hat sticks up in a cone shape.
The decreases started too late, there were too many plain rounds between them, or the stitches were pulled tight too abruptly at the end.
For your next hat, start the decreases a little earlier or work them more often. On this one, you can gently smooth out the top after gathering it and avoid over-tightening the center.
The top looks squashed and doesn't follow the hat's shape.
The decreases started too early, or too many stitches are removed in each round.
Check the height before starting the decreases, and spread the decrease out more gradually. For your next hat, leave more height in the main body before the crown.
On the stockinette stitch, you can see the decreases running unevenly.
The markers shifted, the sections were different sizes, or a decrease was skipped in one of the rounds.
Use markers and check after every round that the decreases were worked in every section. It's best to fix a mistake right away, while you only need to unravel one row.
You can see gaps next to the decrease lines.
The stitches near the decrease were worked too loosely, or the decrease direction changes from row to row.
Watch your yarn tension and keep the same decrease technique throughout. Don't pull the whole row tight, but keep a slight eye on the stitches next to each decrease.
The stitches stretch out on the circular needles, and knitting becomes uncomfortable.
The crown's diameter has gotten too small for your current method.
Switch to double-pointed needles, magic loop, or another small-circumference method you're used to. Don't try to stretch the stitches along a long cable, or the edge can end up loose.
No. The number depends on the hat's size, your gauge, the yarn's thickness, and the crown shape you want. The universal principle is to split the stitches evenly into sections and decrease the same way in each one.
The tutorial is written for a hat in stockinette stitch. For patterned fabric, cables, or fair isle, it's better to adjust the decrease plan to fit the pattern so you don't break the repeat.
Once the main body of the hat is knit to the height you want. Starting too early can make the hat come out shallow; starting too late can make the crown stretched out.
A regular bound-off edge usually isn't used for the crown. The last stitches are gathered onto the working yarn's tail and pulled snug instead, so the center comes out neat.
Yes, if you want to see the needle movement and the author's exact pace. The text version helps you understand the order of steps, while the video shows the process itself.
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