Drafting a One-Piece Sleeve Pattern: Measurements

Take the measurements:

forearm circumference = 30.3 cm + 3 cm ease allowance;
wrist circumference = 16.5 cm + 6 cm ease allowance;
sleeve length = 55.5 cm + 2.5 cm ease allowance.

Note: ease allowances can vary according to the fabric's stretch.

The example uses measurements for Russian size 48 at a height of 170 cm.

Calculate the drafting grid

First, establish O–O1 on the garment pattern. The source punctuation around the following sleeve-cap calculation is inconsistent.

To measure O–O1, join points P1 and P5 and divide that line in half. From point O, drop a perpendicular to the armhole and mark point O1. Measure the line; in this case, it is 17.4 cm long.

The source then subtracts 2 cm from O–O1 to obtain the sleeve-cap height: 17.4 − 2.0 = 15.4 cm.

Diagram for measuring sleeve-cap height on an armhole pattern

Sleeve length = O2–M = sleeve length + ease allowance = 55.5 + 2.5 = 58 cm.

Calculate the elbow-line position: (O2–M)/2 + 3.0 = 32 cm.

Calculate the sleeve width below the armhole: R1–R2 = forearm circumference + ease allowance = 30.3 + 3 = 33.3 cm. The text gives 33.3 cm, while diagram 2 labels the width 33.2 cm and uses halves of 16.6 cm; verify the drafting value before use.

Calculate the sleeve width at the hem: M3–M4 = wrist circumference + ease allowance = 16.5 + 6.5 = 23 cm.

Draw the grid In the English labels, the diagram's pi-shaped point family is written as P and its R-shaped family as R.

From point O2, draw a vertical line downward and mark point M. Again from O2, measure the sleeve-cap height downward and mark it O1.

To establish the elbow line, measure the calculated length downward from O2 and mark point L1.
From O1, measure out half the sleeve width below the armhole on each side: (R1–R2)/2 = 16.6 cm.

From M, measure out half the sleeve width at the hem on each side: (M3–M4)/2 = 11.5 cm.
Also mark the construction points for the front and elbow curves: O1–Rl = O1–Rp = (R1–R2)/4 = 8.3 cm.

One-piece sleeve grid with the main measurements

Now mark the construction points for the sleeve-cap curve: Rp–R4 = G4–P6 (front armhole pattern) + 0.5 = 6.5 cm, and Rl–R3 = G1–P3 (back armhole pattern) + 0.5 = 8.8 cm.

Bodice armhole construction with points A0–A2, P1–P3 and G1–G2

Bodice armhole construction with points A3–A9, P1–P4 and G1–G7

Extend vertical lines from Rl and Rp to the horizontal line through O2; mark the intersections O4 and O3.

Next, from Rl and Rp, mark the construction points R3 and R4 upward on the vertical lines.
Calculate the construction points along the upper sleeve-cap line (OP).

O2–O6 = (O2–O4)/2 = 4.1 cm.
O2–O5 = (O2–O3)/2 − 2 = 2.1 cm.
O5–2 = 2–2.5 cm; use 2.3 cm.

O6–3 = 1–2 cm; use 1.2 cm.

Join R2 and R3. From the midpoint of the segment (point 5), draw a perpendicular line and obtain point 4.

5–4 = 0.7–1.5 cm; use 1.2 cm.

From Rp, draw the angle bisector.

Rp–8 = G4–2 (front armhole pattern) + 1 = 2.6 + 1 = 3.6 cm.

Construction points for drafting a sleeve cap

Then draw a smooth curve through points R2–4–R3–3–O2–2–R4–8–R2; this is the OP line.

Sleeve-cap construction diagram with control points

Next, measure the armhole length and sleeve-cap length and compare them to check for an error.

Garment armhole outline marked with a length of 44.5 cm

Comparison of two sleeve-cap curve lengths, including 48.1 cm

Armhole length = 44.5 cm; sleeve-cap length = 48.1 cm. Calculate sleeve-cap ease: 48.1–44.5 = 3.6 cm.

Measure the armhole sections to the control points T6 and T3.

Garment armhole divided into sections of 11.1, 12.2, 11.5 and 9.7 cm

Distribute the ease so that each upper armhole section receives 35% of the total ease and each lower section receives 15%:

3.6 × 35% = 1.3 cm at the top;

3.6 × 15% = 0.5 cm at the bottom. The stated 35%/15% distribution gives 1.3/0.5 cm, but the listed front sections 12.2 → 13.4 and 9.7 → 10.3 do not use those increments; verify the calculations before drafting.

Calculate the sleeve-cap sections from the corresponding armhole sections plus sleeve-cap ease:

armhole section;
sleeve-cap section (armhole + ease);
lower back armhole (11.5 cm) 12 cm;
upper back armhole (11.1 cm) 12.4 cm;
lower front armhole (12.2 cm) 13.4 cm.
upper front armhole (9.7 cm) 10.3 cm.

The first listed back result is 12 cm, while diagram 10 appears to show 12.1 cm; this discrepancy needs pattern-drafting review. Place the control points on the sleeve cap to correspond with the points on the armhole.

Sleeve-cap diagram with measurements along the curve sections

Join R2 and R1 to M4 and M3.

One-piece sleeve pattern with sleeve-cap and elbow lines

Extend the lines from M4 and M3 by 0.5 cm below the sleeve hemline to blend the hem level at the lower (inside) sleeve seam.

Sleeve pattern hemline

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