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A step-by-step breakdown of crochet slide slippers in EU size 38: the insole starts with 16 chain stitches, the sole is made from two layers, and the upper consists of two straps sewn onto the base.
BeginnerFreeYou'll get soft house slide slippers with a rounded toe, a double-layer crocheted sole, and two wide straps on top. The source pattern uses 100% cotton yarn, 100 g per 310 m, and a hook No. 8; the numbers are given for EU size 38.
All the numbers in this pattern are for size 38 slide slippers. If your yarn or hook differs from the source, crochet one insole first and try it against your foot or a well-fitting pair of house shoes.
This pattern uses chain stitch, turning chain, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet. Beginners should keep the increase pattern in view and check each section separately: the heel, the sides, and the toe.
First you crochet an oval insole around a chain of chain stitches. This is the base piece, which you'll then repeat three more times.
Chain 16 stitches. Into the very first bar on the back of this chain, work a stitch: this is the first increase stitch, which forms the heel.
The first stitch on the back of the chain matters for the later heel increases; don't shift it to a different stitch.
Work 7 single crochet, then 6 half double crochet. Into the last stitch of the chain, work 6 half double crochet for the toe. Along the second side, work another 6 half double crochet and 7 single crochet. Into the stitch where you worked the first stitch, add 2 more single crochet.
Join the yarn. Work 1 single crochet, then increase in the next stitch: 2 single crochet. Next comes 8 single crochet, 1 half double crochet, 5 double crochet. At the toe, work 2 double crochet into each of the six stitches from the previous round; that gives 12 double crochet at the toe in total. Then work 5 double crochet, 1 half double crochet, and 8 single crochet. At the heel, increase: 2 single crochet, and 1 single crochet into the stitch where the very first stitch was worked.
The main increase of the second round happens at the toe: six stitches from the previous round turn into 12 double crochet.
Join the yarn again: 1 single crochet, then an increase of 2 single crochet in the next stitch. Work 14 single crochet. At the toe, work this sequence: increase, 2 single crochet, increase, 4 single crochet, increase, 2 single crochet, increase. Then work 14 single crochet, an increase, 1 single crochet, and one more increase. Finish the round neatly with a "false chain".
The source lists the toe increase sequence separately; it's best not to merge it into a general formula, so the oval shape isn't lost.
Each slipper uses not one but two crocheted insoles joined together.
Repeat the insole pattern three more times. For a pair you'll need four identical pieces: two for each slipper.
Place two insoles together with wrong sides facing each other. Join them with slip stitches, forming a neat chain edge. Assemble the second sole the same way.
If you want the slippers to last longer and hold their shape better, one discussion participant suggests sewing the footbed onto a felt or leather base.
The slipper's upper consists of two separate straps worked back and forth.
For the lower strap, work 12 single crochet plus 1 turning chain. Work back and forth for five rows in total.
For the upper strap, work 13 single crochet plus 1 turning chain. Work this strap back and forth too, five rows in total.
Arrange the two straps on the sole so you get an open-top slipper. Sew the straps to the sole with a needle. Assemble the second slipper the same way, checking the strap placement against the first.
Since the upper is sewn on by hand, compare the height and angle of the straps with the first slipper before securing the second one.
The source leaves the finishing touches up to the maker, so it's best not to overcomplicate this part.
Decorate the slippers to your taste, or leave them plain. If you add elements to the upper straps, secure them so they don't get in the way of your foot while walking.
For the pair, the sole length, the height of the upper straps, and the direction of the joining chain along the edge should all match. The yarn ends should be secured, and the upper shouldn't rub against your foot.
The discussion notes that you can get creative with the upper. The source's basic pattern is two straps, but you can change the decoration, color, and density of the upper part once you're happy with the fit of the basic model.
For everyday house shoes, you can add a felt or leather base. This isn't part of the original author's pattern, but a practical tip from the discussion.
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The finished sole turns out noticeably bigger or smaller than expected.
The pattern is calculated for a specific yarn, a No. 8 hook, and size 38; with a different yarn thickness the size will change.
Don't change all the increases at random. First crochet one insole using the original numbers, try it against your foot, and only after fitting adjust the yarn, hook, or starting chain length.
The insole's oval is skewed, or the toe doesn't look rounded.
Increases were skipped or misplaced in the section where six stitches from the previous round turn into 12 double crochet, or the increase sequence in the next round was disrupted.
Check the toe section separately in the second round and the next round. Don't merge the increases into arbitrary groups: the order given in the source is what shapes the rounded front.
The footbed feels soft, stretches, or seems not durable enough.
Even a double crocheted sole can be soft for active wear.
Tip from the discussion: sew the footbed onto a felt or leather base. You can use ready-made footbeds or cut a base from an old boot shaft, a bag, or a wool coat.
While crocheting, it's unclear where the heel, side, and toe are.
The source has a lot of numbers in a row and no step-by-step process photos.
Split the round into sections: heel, side, toe, second side. After each section, check the stitch count against the pattern, and reread the whole increase section before starting the next round.
The source explicitly states that this pattern is made for size 38 slide slippers.
The master class calls for 100% cotton yarn, 100 g per 310 m, and hook No. 8. The author also notes the general principle: the hook should match the thickness of the chosen yarn.
Each slipper uses a double sole: two insoles are placed wrong sides together and joined with slip stitches. That's why you need four pieces for a pair.
Lower strap: 12 single crochet plus 1 turning chain. Upper strap: 13 single crochet plus 1 turning chain. Each strap is worked back and forth, five rows in total.
In the original pattern this isn't a required step. But the discussion suggests sewing the footbed onto a felt or leather base if you want more durability and a sturdier shape.
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Crocheted slippers come in many different styles. I'd like to add to the collection with instructions for making crochet slide slippers.
For crocheting the slippers you'll need yarn and a hook that matches this yarn's thickness.

This master class uses 100% cotton yarn, 100 g per 310 m, and hook No. 8.
How to Crochet Them
This pattern is made for size 38 slippers.
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Beautiful. And you can get as creative as you like with the upper

Great, I'll try to crochet it)
How much time does it take you to crochet a pair?
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For more durability, and so the little slippers hold their shape, it's a good idea to sew the footbed onto a felt or leather base. You can buy ready-made footbeds or cut one from an old boot shaft, a bag, or a wool coat. Other than that, the slippers are super. Crocheting with T-shirt yarn is pure pleasure, it won't take much time at all, and I don't think you'll use much yarn either!