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A step-by-step frog hat tutorial: materials, taking measurements, crocheting the crown top-down, calculating the crown size by wedge or gauge, the plain lower section without increases, eyes, pupils, assembling the face, and a separate knitting pattern for the frog headband.
BeginnerFreeThe main result is a green or muted-green crochet frog hat with no brim and no ear flaps. You can leave it with just the eyes or add blush spots, a tongue, and an embroidered mouth. The source also includes a frog headband and a few photos of other models from the internet as ideas for your own adaptation.
If you're just learning to crochet, start with the simple single crochet hat. Treat the frog headband and the ear versions as options to try after the basic hat.
Measure head circumference with a tape measure across the forehead, through the middle of the ears, and around the back of the head. Hat depth is the distance from the crown to the bottom edge of the hat.
Actual head circumference is 2-4 cm larger than the finished hat size. The exact difference depends on your gauge and the stretch of the fabric.
The hat is worked top-down, which makes it easier to try on as you go and stop once the crown has reached the right size.
Make a magic ring, work 6 single crochet stitches into it, and join them into a circle. Mark the last stitch with a marker.
The source aims for a slightly oval crown shape, which is why the increases are spread across sectors from here on.
Round 2: work 2 single crochet stitches into each stitch. Round 3: increase every other stitch. Round 4: work the same as round 3. Round 5: increase in every 3rd stitch. Rounds 6-8: work the same as round 5.
After the first rounds, divide the stitch count by 6 and mark the sectors. From here, work further increases in each of the 6 sectors until you reach the stitch count or crown size you need.
Increases need to be spaced evenly across all sectors, or the crown may end up skewed.
The source gives two ways to calculate this: by wedge size, and by stitch count using gauge.
Measure the size of one wedge and multiply by 6. In the example, the wedge is 8 cm: 8 x 6 = 48 cm. Allowing for stretch, this hat would fit a head circumference of 48-52 cm.
Measure the length of the wedge and calculate the gauge. In the example, 10 stitches fit into 5 cm, which is 2 stitches per cm.
Multiply your gauge by head circumference: 2 x 52 = 104 stitches. If each of the 6 wedges has 16 stitches, that's 96 stitches total. That means you need to work 1-2 more rounds for the hat to fit better.
The numbers 48-52 cm, 96, and 104 stitches are given in the source as a calculation example, not as a ready-made size chart.
Once the crown has reached the right size, the increases stop.
Keep working in single crochet with no increases until you reach the height given by your hat depth measurement. Try the hat on as you go, since this pattern is worked top-down.
Once the height matches your hat depth measurement and you're happy with the fit, fasten off all stitches. Then move on to the eyes and face.
The eyes are made separately and sewn onto the finished hat. Extra face details can be added if you'd like.
Using green thread, crochet 2 circles of 8 rounds with evenly spaced increases. Check by holding them against the hat whether the eyes are big enough, and add more rounds if needed.
For each eye, crochet a smaller black circle and work 1 round around it in white thread.
Fold each green piece in half and work single crochet along the bottom edge to give it a neater shape.
Measure 7 cm out from the center of the crown in each direction and sew the eyes onto the hat. Use a blunt-tip yarn needle so you don't split the yarn.
Before sewing them on for good, pin both pieces in place and check the distance from the crown center to each eye.
Sew a pupil onto each eye and embroider a highlight on it with white thread.
You can stop here, or crochet blush spots from two flat red circles and a tongue shaped like a half-circle. Sew the pieces onto the hat and embroider the mouth with black thread.
This is a separate style of headwear from the source. The headband is knitted sideways starting from the ties, and the eyes can be crocheted the same way as for the hat.
Cast on 8 stitches and work in garter stitch for 20 cm.
From here, work increases: 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 center knit stitch, 4 stitches in garter stitch. Increase following the chart; the source specifies 17 increases in total.
After widening, knit straight while keeping the pattern: the edges stay in garter stitch, the center in stockinette stitch. Knit to the length you need, then work the decreases as a mirror image and finish with the second tie.
You can crochet the eyes the same way as for the hat: a green base with a black-and-white pupil. For a dimensional version, crochet 2 green circles of the same size, work 3 rounds without increases around the perimeter of one circle, add stuffing, and sew on the second half.
The hat should cover the depth given by your hat depth measurement, without being looser than the calculated size. For the headband, check that the ties tie comfortably and that the widened section covers the ears.
The eyes, pupils, blush, and tongue need to be sewn on securely. If the accessory is for a child, check all the sewn-on pieces especially carefully.
The source suggests using khaki, greenish-brown, or fallen-leaf color if you want a more subdued, teen-friendly version.
For the ear version, the source provides a separate video tutorial. This text doesn't spell it out row by row, to avoid inventing details that aren't in the video.
The last photos in this article are an internet collection of ideas: a hat with a brim, a children's hat with ties, large dimensional eyes, and different face variations. Treat these as visual references, not as ready-made instructions.
In the discussion, one commenter notes that frog hats feel like a fresh alternative to cat ears.
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The finished hat won't stay on, or it presses too tightly.
Head circumference and hat depth were measured inaccurately, or the 2-4 cm difference between head circumference and finished hat size wasn't accounted for.
Remeasure head circumference across the forehead, through the middle of the ears, and around the back of the head, and hat depth from the crown to the bottom edge. When calculating the crown, factor in the gauge and stretch of your specific yarn.
The crown doesn't look even; increases are bunching up on one side.
Increases weren't spread across the 6 sectors, or the markers were moved inaccurately.
After the first rounds, divide the stitches into 6 sectors and work further increases in each sector. Use markers to mark the sectors, not just the start of the round.
The gauge calculation gives more stitches than the current crown has.
The crown hasn't yet reached the size needed for your chosen head circumference.
Compare your current stitch count with the calculation. As in the source's example: if you need 104 stitches and have 96, work 1-2 more rounds with increases.
One eye sits higher or closer to the center than the other.
The pieces were sewn on without measuring out from the center of the crown first.
Mark the center of the crown and measure 7 cm out in each direction. Before sewing for good, pin or baste both eyes in place and check the symmetry.
The edges and center section blend together, and the widening comes out uneven.
The garter-stitch edge stitches and the center knit-stitch section weren't separated with markers.
Keep the structure of 4 garter stitches - center knit-stitch section - 4 garter stitches. Count the increases from the chart, then mirror them for the decreases.
The finished accessory doesn't suit a teen or adult look.
The color is too bright, the face is too large, or there are too many decorative details.
Use khaki, greenish-brown, or another muted shade. You can leave just the eyes without the blush and tongue, or choose the headband instead of the full hat.
Yes, if you go with the simple single crochet version. Save the more complex versions with ears or dimensional details for after you've made the basic hat.
You need head circumference and hat depth. Measure head circumference across the forehead, through the middle of the ears, and around the back of the head; measure hat depth from the crown to the bottom edge.
Crocheted fabric stretches. The source gives a difference of 2-4 cm between actual head circumference and the finished hat size; the exact amount depends on gauge and elasticity.
You can measure one wedge and multiply it by 6, or calculate using gauge: find how many stitches fit in 1 cm, then multiply that gauge by your target head circumference. If you're short on stitches, work 1-2 more rounds with increases.
Crochet the green circles with evenly spaced increases and hold them up against the hat. The source suggests 8 rounds, but you can add more once you've tried the piece against the hat.
Yes. For the headband, the source suggests crocheting two green circles, working 3 rounds without increases around the perimeter of one, adding stuffing, and sewing on the second half. The pupil is then sewn onto the finished eye.
The headband is knitted sideways starting from the ties: first 8 stitches and 20 cm of garter stitch, then widening following the chart, a straight section, mirrored decreases, and the second tie. The eyes can be crocheted the same way as for the hat.
The source links a separate YouTube tutorial for the frog hat with ears. Treat this version as a video resource rather than a written pattern to follow without watching it.
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Fun hats :) cat ears were getting a little old anyway.