Rubrics
A step-by-step tutorial for an adult helmet hat: a 2x2-ribbed cuff, a contrast thread marking 62 stitches for the snood section, crown decreases, picking up stitches for the lower section, and a stretchy bind-off with a needle.
IntermediateFreeThe finished helmet hat covers your head, your face along the opening, and your neck. The tall cuff blocks the wind, the top looks like a beanie, and the lower section works like a snood.
All the calculations in the source are for a 54-58 cm head circumference. If you want a shorter cuff, reduce the cuff's height rather than the stitch count, with no separate recalculation.
The work starts with a tall 2x2-ribbed cuff. A contrast thread immediately marks the section you'll later use to knit the lower part.
For the original pattern, use 300 g of Big Merino Drops and size 3.5 needles. Cast on 120 stitches, knit the first round in 2x2 ribbing, and join the work into a round. Place a marker at the start of the round so you don't lose track.
Before continuing, make sure the cast-on round isn't twisted.
Knit 24 rounds of 2x2 ribbing with no increases or decreases. If you want a shorter cuff, you can reduce its height to your liking.
Without taking the stitches off the needle, thread a contrast-color thread through 62 stitches. This section will later become the base of the hat's lower snood section.
The contrast thread is just a marker and a temporary hold — not a bind-off for the round.
Keep knitting with no increases or decreases up to the height you want. In the sample, the height before the crown starts is 28 cm.
The crown closes with decreases: first following the ribbing pattern, then in plain knit rounds, finishing with gathering the remaining stitches.
On the first decrease round, knit 1, then knit the 2nd knit stitch and 1 purl stitch together through the back loop. After that, knit 1 purl stitch and 1 knit stitch together through the front loop.
The source shows the back-loop and front-loop decreases separately, so that the top comes out looking neat.
Knit rounds two, three, and four entirely in knit stitch. This is a good point to switch to 4 double-pointed needles.
On rounds 5 and 6, knit every stitch together in pairs through the front loop. When 14 stitches remain, cut the yarn, thread it onto a needle, pull it through all the stitches, and secure it on the wrong side.
The full height of the helmet hat's upper section in the source is 30-33 cm.
For a different silhouette, you can split the top into 4, 5, or 6 sections with markers. After a marker, knit 1 and then knit 2 together with a left lean; before the next marker, knit 2 together with a right lean, then knit 1. If 2 purl stitches follow a marker, work them as given in the pattern, then knit them together as one knit stitch.
For a tall, pointed shape, work the decreases every other round; for a rounder shape, work them every round.
The lower section is picked up from the 62 stitches you marked earlier and closes around the face opening.
Using the needle a half size smaller, pick up the 62 ribbing stitches marked with the contrast thread. Once you've picked up the stitches, remove the contrast thread.
Knit the first round following the 2x2 ribbing pattern. At the end of the round, cast on 58 new stitches. For a closer-fitting balaclava with a smaller face opening, cast on fewer stitches — 50-54 instead.
The discussion noted that for city use and public transit, it's more practical to leave a wide-enough opening; a fully covered face suits an athletic version better.
Continue knitting in the round in the main pattern up to the length you want for the lower section. This part covers the neck and visually continues the helmet hat.
So the edge doesn't pull tight against your face, cut a length of yarn about three times around the fabric's width and bind off all the stitches with a needle.
A stiff edge stretches less and can press uncomfortably when you put the hat on.
Check that the crown is secured on the wrong side, the snood's edge is bound off stretchily, the face opening doesn't pull too tight, and the tall cuff sits comfortably at its height.
Instead of 2x2 ribbing, you can knit in 1x1 ribbing: that version fits closer to the head.
For a tall, pointed crown, work the decreases every other round. For a rounder shape, decrease every round.
If you don't have enough yarn for the whole piece, you can knit the lower section in a different color yarn.
This master class is also available in:
After 24 rounds, the cuff feels taller than you wanted.
The cuff height in the source is given as one version of the pattern, not a fixed requirement for everyone.
Reduce the number of cuff rounds to the height you want, while keeping the 2x2 ribbing worked in the round.
The balaclava doesn't sit well around the face, or it's hard to wear a mask or spend time indoors in it.
The number of stitches cast on around the face doesn't match the fit you want.
For the basic version, cast on 58 stitches; for a closer-fitting one, use 50-54. If you want a more practical everyday fit, don't make the opening too narrow.
Once the stitch count drops after the decreases, circular needles get in the way.
The fabric is already narrowing toward the top.
After the decrease rounds, switch to 4 double-pointed needles, as the source suggests.
The crown comes out less pointed or less round than you'd like.
How often you decrease affects the top's silhouette.
For a tall, pointed crown, decrease every other round; for a rounder one, decrease every round. You can also split the top into 4, 5, or 6 sections with markers.
You don't have enough main yarn for the lower section.
The original pattern uses 300 g, but the actual amount depends on the snood's length and the cuff's height.
Knit the lower section in a different color yarn: the source directly suggests this option if you run short on yarn.
The source's calculations are for a 54-58 cm head circumference. The full height of the upper section after closing the crown is 30-33 cm.
The pattern uses 100% merino wool Big Merino Drops, with 300 g needed. The author notes the fabric's softness, warmth, and stretch, thanks to its medium twist.
After picking up the 62 stitches, knit a round of 2x2 ribbing, and cast on 50-54 new stitches instead of 58. This makes the balaclava fit closer.
The discussion noted that a fully covered face suits athletes better — skiers and cyclists, for example. For public transit, shopping, or wearing a medical mask, it's more practical to leave a wider opening.
Cut a length of yarn about three times around the fabric's width and bind off the stitches with a needle. This kind of edge keeps its stretch better than a tight bind-off.
Log in to track your project, attach photos, and publish your result into the shared feed.
Log inLog in to comment and follow this discussion.
Log in

Balaclavas are at the peak of fashion right now! Your version is really nice — versatile. I wanted to knit one like the photo, with a slit.
But then I thought it wouldn't be all that comfortable — it gets hot on public transit or in a shop. And it's a hassle to fit a medical mask under it too. But yours is great!
A balaclava with a fully closed face is more for athletes — skiers, cyclists. Though you could make the slit a bit wider in this style too, to make it more practical.
Komok.me
Komok is a craft community for master classes, lessons, and projects in sewing, knitting, and other crafts.
Balaclavas are at the peak of fashion right now! Your version is really nice — versatile. I wanted to knit one like the photo, with a slit.
But then I thought it wouldn't be all that comfortable — it gets hot on public transit or in a shop. And it's a hassle to fit a medical mask under it too. But yours is great!